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Old 07-07-2018, 02:15 PM   #1
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Default Shore power

Nothing that runs off DC power will work when I'm plugged in to 110. What could it be?
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Old 07-07-2018, 02:35 PM   #2
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Nothing that runs off DC power will work when I'm plugged in to 110. What could it be?
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Old 07-08-2018, 06:08 PM   #3
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Stock 92 Dodge ram coach house.
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Old 07-08-2018, 09:20 PM   #4
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Does it run on battery when not plugged in?
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Old 07-08-2018, 09:30 PM   #5
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yes. they run on battery only.
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Old 07-08-2018, 11:39 PM   #6
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Check the 110 circuit breaker that feeds the converter section. Cycle it off then back on.

If that doesn't work check for 110 coming out of the breaker. If you are not comfortable working around electricity that can kill you, have an electrician check it out.

On TDY near Torey UT near ut12, my all time favorite road.
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Old 07-09-2018, 12:41 AM   #7
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Check the 110 circuit breaker that feeds the converter section. Cycle it off then back on.

If that doesn't work check for 110 coming out of the breaker. If you are not comfortable working around electricity that can kill you, have an electrician check it out.

On TDY near Torey UT near ut12, my all time favorite road.
Don't most converters have a fuse on their output line? Also, regardless of whether the converter does or doesn't have power or deliver battery charging, isn't the coach battery typically hardwired to the 12V distribution panel?
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Old 07-09-2018, 04:26 AM   #8
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Don't most converters have a fuse on their output line? Also, regardless of whether the converter does or doesn't have power or deliver battery charging, isn't the coach battery typically hardwired to the 12V distribution panel?
My thinking was that the 12 volt circuits are disconnected from the battery if shore power is supplied. Could very well be wrong, there is precedent for that. Just don't tell my DW.
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Old 07-09-2018, 04:55 AM   #9
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My thinking was that the 12 volt circuits are disconnected from the battery if shore power is supplied. Could very well be wrong, there is precedent for that. Just don't tell my DW.
Actually some vintage single stage converter/chargers required a battery at its DC output to reduce AC ripple and in some cases, battery separation could make the converter/charger output voltage unstable. That's no longer the case with current designs and the converter will support the 12VDC fuse panel even with the battery disconnected although obviously it will not supply any recharging to the battery. What I don't understand is how your plugging into shore power effectively separates the battery from the DC fuse panel. What is the model of the converter/charger?
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:29 PM   #10
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Actually some vintage single stage converter/chargers required a battery at its DC output to reduce AC ripple and in some cases, battery separation could make the converter/charger output voltage unstable. That's no longer the case with current designs and the converter will support the 12VDC fuse panel even with the battery disconnected although obviously it will not supply any recharging to the battery. What I don't understand is how your plugging into shore power effectively separates the battery from the DC fuse panel. What is the model of the converter/charger?
My response was somewhat conjecture as who knows what is there. I'll delete the post to eliminate confusion.
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:32 PM   #11
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Actually some vintage single stage converter/chargers required a battery at its DC output to reduce AC ripple and in some cases, battery separation could make the converter/charger output voltage unstable. That's no longer the case with current designs and the converter will support the 12VDC fuse panel even with the battery disconnected although obviously it will not supply any recharging to the battery. What I don't understand is how your plugging into shore power effectively separates the battery from the DC fuse panel. What is the model of the converter/charger?

This is backwards. Older chargers would always come on and and provided voltage, with or without a battery connected. That said, they would not regulate the voltage properly without a battery connected, and could destroy your electronic stuff if no battery.


The newer "smart" chargers look for a battery, some even checking to see if it will accept charge, before they initiate charging. No battery connected --- the charger won't run.


The exception would be a charger that is really a "power supply", which will always give the correct voltage control with or without a battery in line.


For the OP's system, he has connection from the battery to the loads, so there is no charger running, or if it is running, it is not connecting plus it is disconnecting the battery from the loads. Check shore power getting to the charger, and for charging voltage out to the battery. The comments about fuses, breakers, loose connections would then be what to check.


What doesn't make any sense is that the 12v system is powered by the battery alone, but goes off when the shore power is put on the van. This would imply a switchover to the charger for 12v power when on shore power and no connection to the battery, which is not anything I have ever heard of. Confirmation on that happening would be good.
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:32 PM   #12
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My response was somewhat conjecture as who knows what is there. I'll delete the post to eliminate confusion.
Looks like I can't delete or modify it. Perhaps a mod could step in and deep six it.

Sorry.
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:50 PM   #13
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Looks like I can't delete or modify it. Perhaps a mod could step in and deep six it.

Sorry.

No need to, I think the comment about the 12v going off when the charger comes on is possibly happening. Whether or not is should be happening is another question.
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:57 PM   #14
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This is backwards. Older chargers would always come on and and provided voltage, with or without a battery connected. That said, they would not regulate the voltage properly without a battery connected, and could destroy your electronic stuff if no battery.
I'm at a loss as to what I posted that is backwards.
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Old 07-09-2018, 07:04 PM   #15
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I'm at a loss as to what I posted that is backwards.

You stated that the older chargers need a battery to run and put out power, which they don't (they do to hold good voltage, though). And you stated that the newer smart chargers will run without a battery, which they won't, as they need to see a battery to initiate charging.


Instead of old won't put out voltage without a battery and new will,



It is really old will put out a voltage and new won't without a battery.
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Old 07-09-2018, 07:52 PM   #16
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You stated that the older chargers need a battery to run and put out power, which they don't (they do to hold good voltage, though). And you stated that the newer smart chargers will run without a battery, which they won't, as they need to see a battery to initiate charging.


Instead of old won't put out voltage without a battery and new will,


It is really old will put out a voltage and new won't without a battery.

This is what I posted:

Actually some vintage single stage converter/chargers required a battery at its DC output to reduce AC ripple and in some cases, battery separation could make the converter/charger output voltage unstable. That's no longer the case with current designs and the converter will support the 12VDC fuse panel even with the battery disconnected although obviously it will not supply any recharging to the battery. What I don't understand is how your plugging into shore power effectively separates the battery from the DC fuse panel. What is the model of the converter/charger?


1. I never said that the vintage converter/charger units needed a battery to put out power. What I said is that they needed a battery to reduce AC ripple to an acceptable level in addition to acting as a filter to stabilize its output.

2. I never said that later generation smart chargers would operate without a battery. What I said was that current design permits stable operation of the converter without the presence of a battery.
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Old 07-09-2018, 08:09 PM   #17
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This is what I posted:

Actually some vintage single stage converter/chargers required a battery at its DC output to reduce AC ripple and in some cases, battery separation could make the converter/charger output voltage unstable. That's no longer the case with current designs and the converter will support the 12VDC fuse panel even with the battery disconnected although obviously it will not supply any recharging to the battery. What I don't understand is how your plugging into shore power effectively separates the battery from the DC fuse panel. What is the model of the converter/charger?


1. I never said that the vintage converter/charger units needed a battery to put out power. What I said is that they needed a battery to reduce AC ripple to an acceptable level in addition to acting as a filter to stabilize its output.

2. I never said that later generation smart chargers would operate without a battery. What I said was that current design permits stable operation of the converter without the presence of a battery.

Semantics on number 1. When you say a charger "requires" a battery, can mean either won't work or shouldn't be done.


I have no idea what you are talking about in #2. The inverter/charger or inverter/converter in an RV is commonly referred to as a smart charger, just like the plug in the wall units, and I can tell you they do not work, will not come on or will shut off when battery is disconnected. This is true for all the ones I have had. Tripplite, Blue Sea, Magnum, for RV mounted units and Xantrex and Ctek for standalone chargers. None would initiate or give output without a battery or if the battery was disconnected. The only charger that will run without a battery is my old Sears dumb charger. It will always put out voltage, although without reference it is about 16 volts.


The fact that the newer chargers won't initiate without batteries in the circuit is one of the big reasons Roadtrek had to put the AGM in their systems, and why when newer RVs have dead batteries the chargers won't charge them when plugged in. The given solution is always to parallel a battery with some charge on it to get the charger to start, or to use a dumb charger for a while and then switch to the RV charger.
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Old 07-09-2018, 08:39 PM   #18
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Semantics on number 1. When you say a charger "requires" a battery, can mean either won't work or shouldn't be done.


I have no idea what you are talking about in #2. The inverter/charger or inverter/converter in an RV is commonly referred to as a smart charger, just like the plug in the wall units, and I can tell you they do not work, will not come on or will shut off when battery is disconnected. This is true for all the ones I have had. Tripplite, Blue Sea, Magnum, for RV mounted units and Xantrex and Ctek for standalone chargers. None would initiate or give output without a battery or if the battery was disconnected. The only charger that will run without a battery is my old Sears dumb charger. It will always put out voltage, although without reference it is about 16 volts.

1. Semantics? That's all you got?

2. Since I'm unable to convince you to differentiate converter operation from battery charger operation, I'll drop the subject.
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Old 07-09-2018, 09:47 PM   #19
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This discussion is above my pay grade but I'll dive into it deeper when I can(check voltage, fuses etc.) and get back with you.
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Old 07-09-2018, 09:58 PM   #20
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This discussion is above my pay grade but I'll dive into it deeper when I can(check voltage, fuses etc.) and get back with you.
In the mean time, can you provide the make and model of the converter?
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