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Old 07-28-2017, 05:30 PM   #301
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Originally Posted by gerrym51 View Post
Did you ask about the Balmar lights?
A dealer tech and I saw the Balmar wasn't powered, wasn't showing any lights or LCD indications. We changed a fuse to see if that was it, and it wasn't. Then they took it into the garage to work on it. They know the Balmar not being powered is the issue but I'm not sure what they've discovered since then.
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Old 07-28-2017, 05:42 PM   #302
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Originally Posted by booster View Post
Doesn't the Balmar also have a 15 amp fuse for its main power, also? With no lights on at all, that would be a likely culprit.
http://www.balmar.net/wp-content/upl...For-Review.pdf'

Pins 1,2 & 3 need to be checked to determine that the module has power, ground and ignition inputs. If they are good, the module is bad.

If the module has fuse protection for the power input, it's internal.
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Old 07-28-2017, 05:48 PM   #303
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Originally Posted by WingedRyno View Post
A dealer tech and I saw the Balmar wasn't powered, wasn't showing any lights or LCD indications. We changed a fuse to see if that was it, and it wasn't. Then they took it into the garage to work on it. They know the Balmar not being powered is the issue but I'm not sure what they've discovered since then.
Not necessarily. Although not likely, it's possible that the display could be bad but the regulator still functions.

If the GU is non-functional from a bad regulator, the pregnant question is: how could the driver go 900+ miles without noticing this?
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Old 07-28-2017, 06:08 PM   #304
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Originally Posted by WingedRyno View Post
A dealer tech and I saw the Balmar wasn't powered, wasn't showing any lights or LCD indications. We changed a fuse to see if that was it, and it wasn't. Then they took it into the garage to work on it. They know the Balmar not being powered is the issue but I'm not sure what they've discovered since then.
Of course, because nobody knows how a Roadtrek is wired. The regulator power could be controlled by an output from the BMS, and is just shut off when it shouldn't be.
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Old 07-28-2017, 06:36 PM   #305
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Originally Posted by WingedRyno View Post
A dealer tech and I saw the Balmar wasn't powered, wasn't showing any lights or LCD indications. We changed a fuse to see if that was it, and it wasn't. Then they took it into the garage to work on it. They know the Balmar not being powered is the issue but I'm not sure what they've discovered since then.
This is Friday. If the regulator is bad there is still time for Nations to overnight a replacement if the dealer doesn't have one.
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Old 07-28-2017, 07:28 PM   #306
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They said won't get fixed today, might have techs come in on a Saturday. So hotel for the weekend while I stand by.

Dealer was cool for letting me stay in the unit for a night on their lot to test it out. Wish these issues would have been discovered and fixed before I bought the airline ticket though.

Oh well. Hurry up and wait... Perhaps soon it will get fixed and then I'll give them the cash and drive it off the lot.
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Old 07-28-2017, 08:04 PM   #307
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Originally Posted by WingedRyno View Post
They said won't get fixed today, might have techs come in on a Saturday. So hotel for the weekend while I stand by.

Dealer was cool for letting me stay in the unit for a night on their lot to test it out. Wish these issues would have been discovered and fixed before I bought the airline ticket though.

Oh well. Hurry up and wait... Perhaps soon it will get fixed and then I'll give them the cash and drive it off the lot.
If stimulating pins 1,2 &3 doesn't bring the module to life, there's nothing to fix.
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Old 07-28-2017, 08:17 PM   #308
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Originally Posted by cruising7388 View Post
http://www.balmar.net/wp-content/upl...For-Review.pdf'

Pins 1,2 & 3 need to be checked to determine that the module has power, ground and ignition inputs. If they are good, the module is bad.

If the module has fuse protection for the power input, it's internal.
They show a 10 amp fuse in the link you provided for the power. It probably should be 15 amps, though.
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Old 07-28-2017, 09:17 PM   #309
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Dealership called and said they won't bring in a tech tomorrow, so hotel until Monday at least. This trip to pick up the rig is starting to rack up significantly between hotel, airfare and uber costs.

But it was super cool of them to let me stay a night in the rig to test it out, and they did fix the frig and freezer quickly.

I'm probably just going to take the AC for now and get it worked on later (assuming I end up buying the rig, which I want to do once it's fixed). I guess RT says the intake air and the outlet air (both on the same roof mounted internal unit) are supposed to have a differential of at least 20 degrees and the outlet air is supposed to be no more than 40F. Using an IR gun this morning (ambient air temp in the 60s) the outlet air pointing IR gun right at the outlet vents was showing as low as 29F. Inlet air was in the 60s.

But yesterday with the AC on high for hours on shore power (air going straight down from unit) it was in the 90s in the van despite being 80s outside and for moments was blowing slightly warm air. I just can't imagine that is normal. I certainly can't live in the van like that.

And I can't find any indicator for the Alde "summer pump" switch to tell me if the pump is on or off.
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Old 07-28-2017, 09:30 PM   #310
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[QUOTE=WingedRyno;60362]Dealership called and said they won't bring in a tech tomorrow, so hotel until Monday. This trip to pick up the rig is starting to rack up significantly between hotel, airfare and uber costs.


Wasn't that kind of expected WingedRyno?

From all that I've experienced on B forums, that is kind of par for course with an etrek if you travel to go pick one up.

Wishing you be the best come Monday.

Bud
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