Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-15-2019, 02:18 AM   #1
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3
Default 2006 Roadtrek Popular 210 Freshwater Issue

Thanks in advance! I have a 2006 Roadtrek 210 Popular (on a 2005 Chevy chassis) that has a 10 gallon inside freshwater tank (under back bed) and a larger outside freshwater tank (under driver). I have tried switching valves by water pump every way possible, and no matter what I can only use the 10 gallons from the inside tank. Once it empties, my faucets spurt air. I think the outside tank is supposed to gravity flow to the inside tank. Could that line be clogged or any other ideas???
__________________

badrandy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2019, 02:52 AM   #2
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 404
Default

Did you mean the reverse? Wouldn't the inside tank be higher than the one below the driver? Or am I missing something in the design?
__________________

GallenH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2019, 02:53 AM   #3
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3
Default

sorry, you are correct. so for some reason matter how I switch valves I am not pulling from the outside tank
badrandy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2019, 03:09 AM   #4
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 404
Default

Is your pump intake switchable. Does a separate line go from each tank to a valve that allows you do select which tank to draw from and have a single valve outlet that goes to the pump?
GallenH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2019, 03:17 AM   #5
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 404
Default

If you have such a valve, you could disconnect each of the valve inputs and try blowing through each. You should be able to bubble air into each tank. That might help determine which line goes to each tank and if the outside tank line is clogged.

If they both appear to be unobstructed, check the switching valve to make sure it's not faulty. As long as you have the inlet tubes disconnected, disconnect the outlet, take the valve out and try blowing through each of the inlets to make sure both can make it to the outlet of the valve.

If the valve passes the test, then I would guess that your pump COULD be faulty. It might be worn to the point where it doesn't have the draw it's supposed to and can draw from the higher tank but doesn't have the power to draw from the lower, outside tank.
GallenH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2019, 03:25 AM   #6
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3
Default

Thanks GallenH! Your idea in the first paragraph will get to the bottom of it.
badrandy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2019, 06:09 PM   #7
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 252
Default

badrandy1, we own a 2007 RT 210P and I suspect it may be very much like your 2006 as far as this question is concerned. RT has a very detailed manual but the pictures of the valve arrangement are different than my 2007 in actuality compared to the 2007 manual. I struggled with the valves and here is how it works on my RT.

Two valves near the pump. One is a small brass valve with a black plastic knob. It is connected to a visible T. Turn that valve so that the knob is in line with the tubing leading into it from the T. The other valve is closer to the pump and has a red handle and it should be opened which will make the handle more parallel to the floor. Two valves, one red and one black handles. Both open. The interior tank will then drain into the large tank. The pump will be pumping from the larger (exterior) tank and the interior tank will simply gravity flow as the exterior tank pumps down.

In this position, when filling the tanks with a water hose, fill the one in the drivers door first. That is the outside tank. Otherwise, if you fill the tank inside through the back door first, a lot of the water will gravity drain down into the outside tank before you can fill the outside tank. Therefore, your inside tank will be partially emptied.

I always leave the valves to open like described and use both tanks because we store in an enclosed HVAC controlled garage and never winterize. We also don't travel in weather we know will be really cold.

Total fresh water using both tanks is 30 US gallons.

Paul
Doneworking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2019, 06:40 PM   #8
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 149
Default

My 2005 RT 210 has 2 valves under the drivers side bed close to the fridge.
The one in the floor opens the inside tank drain to the main tank. The other controls water to the pump from the inside or the outside tank.
Deano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 09:43 PM   #9
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: OK
Posts: 1
Default

My 2005 RT 210P has a strainer installed in line where the tank switching valves are located. This clear plastic is marked "03-04". Looks like OEM. Does anyone know if this strainer ever needs to be replaced to get normal water flow?
BWhoUR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 11:08 PM   #10
Platinum Member
 
rowiebowie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,142
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BWhoUR View Post
My 2005 RT 210P has a strainer installed in line where the tank switching valves are located. This clear plastic is marked "03-04". Looks like OEM. Does anyone know if this strainer ever needs to be replaced to get normal water flow?

Welcome to the forum BWhoUR!


The "03-04" seems like a short number for a part and may be year of manufacture. That is just a guess.

On my '2012 model there is a screen that is meant to be cleaned rather than replaced. I'm guessing yours can be cleaned as well. Mine was very easy to check with quick-connect fittings. The hardest part is remembering to turn the pump off, drain pressure from the system, and just physically getting to it. Mine is similar to the pictures, attached.

Try google searching or youtube and you may find some good information.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Airstream Water Pump Filter removal.jpg (367.9 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg Airstream Water Pump Filter clean.jpg (281.7 KB, 9 views)
rowiebowie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 11:15 PM   #11
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 252
Default

BWhoUR, greetings from a fellow Okie with a 2007 RT 210P. I bet our filters are identical and all that is required to remove it is to twist it by hand counter clockwise as you are are looking at it. The pump and valves can be accessed as you know from two places: a cabinet door on the floor in front of the pump area or in a hinged access door from under the bed. The under the bed approach gives the best access for working on the stuff and a lot of folks never realize it is even there, thinking only the door down on the floor is it. It is very easy to get to from under the bed mattress.

I took mine off once in twelve years to take a look at it and it was clean as a whistle. So, I just screwed it back on. Unless your pump is having difficulty drawing from the tanks, I suggest the normal Okie approach that has always worked for me: if it ain't broke........you know the rest.
Doneworking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 08:47 PM   #12
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 6
Default

We also have a 2007 Chev 210V. Our water tanks work just as described by Paul.
Steve
__________________

3fox3@att.net is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×