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Old 11-07-2017, 03:50 PM   #31
Bud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markopolo View Post
The power consumption specs for my 20+ year old - manual control - Dometic RM2410 are listed as:

DC Heating Element: 125W
AC Heating Element: 160W

I don't think the DC wire has ever been connected. It is still neatly coiled up as if new. I guess the previous owner either didn't run it while driving or used it in gas mode.

Like Bud, I run it on AC while driving using an inverter. My setup has an added $50 (when I bought it 5 years ago) Xantrex Pro-watt automatic transfer switch so no plugging/unplugging needed.

It is easy to turn the fridge off by turning the inverter off as the inverter switch is easily reachable from the drivers seat.

An Update and Warning markopolo,

After your post above, you may recall that I purchased and installed the automatic transfer switch. Thanks again, really like it.

Concerning the Warning above, you're more at risk than me? I'm using 2 Walmart marine batteries, inexpensive unlike your fine setup.

I can't explain exactly what happen, but I did get lucky just by accident. I stopped for the night in a private campground about a month ago. They had just opened 3 new camping spots far apart with no one else there. It appeared I was the first from the beautiful grass and more.

I one quarter wake up hot, sit up in bed and turn on the a/c. Not sure if the compressor tried to start or not, maybe just the 12 volt noise from the thermostat and ac unit. It does not start *!#!! along with some choice word for the situation. Oh well, it is not hot out, I'll just use the fastastic fan. No, I should go outside and plug the portable surge protector out and in. The lights were on the unit, but heck if I could recall what they meant. Back inside and the ac still won't work, just the 12 volt sounds. Oh well, I'll just turn on the fan and go back to bed. I'll figure it out the morning. I got lucky, I noticed the battery meter even though I was not looking for it. It showed 12.1 volts.

I was still half asleep and almost did not react. Then it was huh? How could the batteries not be fully charged? Then it was obvious, there was no 110 volts for the battery charger, no shore power. The refer was running off 12 volt inverter power, Just like it was suppose to! I was not concerned at this point as there was still plenty of battery left, volts popped right up after turning off the inverter. Oh well, I head back out and try again. No wait, I turn off the battery disconnect switch first. I sure like my flashlight.

After that all was well, ac etc. What happened, heck if I know. I do know I would have been heading to a Walmart for 2 new batteries if I had not woke up, etc.

May shore power always be with you markopolo.

Bud
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:25 PM   #32
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Interesting story.

I wonder if it was a temporary problem with the 30A transfer switch?

It's a good idea to check the battery meter after plugging in to confirm battery charging.
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:35 PM   #33
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Forgot to mention that I definitely had shore power and batteries charging at some point prior to bed. I could have lost shore power anytime after the last time the ac shut off.

I don't know for sure, but I think that the ac compressor turned on momentarily when I tried to turn the ac on.

Your guess may be right, or maybe the surge protector saw something it did not like when I turned on the ac. And still did not like it when I plugged the the surge protector out and in. Then all righted itself when I shut it all off with the battery disconnect switch, and then unplugged the surge protector. When plugged back in, all was normal.

Just don't loose shore power when asleep, or shopping, or.................... No big risk for me without 800 amps of agm batteries.

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Old 11-18-2017, 01:03 PM   #34
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Hi.
I have had this same issue.
On 12 volts ,my unit dose not do very well.
But on 110 it works just fine.
So I added an inverter,and run it on 110 all the time.
Takes a good 36 hours or so. To get it really good and cold.
I too added a small fan inside,which seems to help a lot .
I was thinking of trading out the fridge........but.
The 12 volt ones that I found usually do not have a freezer.
And it seems that most kitchen appliances today are not built to last.
So for now I will use the old original. And replace it with a compressor type when she stops working.
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Old 11-18-2017, 02:53 PM   #35
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I also keep a wireless remote thermometer in the fridge. My Engel 12V/AC fridge can do this with minimal power usage:



Don't know how much more it can do, but I suspect it could get to 0. The rheostat was set to its lowest (least cool) setting--I've never tried the other four levels.
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Old 11-21-2017, 01:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MsNomer View Post
I also keep a wireless remote thermometer in the fridge. My Engel 12V/AC fridge can do this with minimal power usage:



Don't know how much more it can do, but I suspect it could get to 0. The rheostat was set to its lowest (least cool) setting--I've never tried the other four levels.
I looked at Amazon for wireless remote thermometers. Do you have your readout mounted on the dash? Was wondering how far the sensor would transmit. Our refrigerator is about 10 ft from the dash and on the other side of the bathroom so there would be several "walls" to go through.
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Old 11-21-2017, 01:28 PM   #37
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I don't think you will have a problem. It will hold signal even if I take the remote outside.
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