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Old 04-08-2013, 02:13 PM   #11
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

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How heavy and expensive would a short flat bed trailer be? Might be easier to pull a small trailer with an electric braking system, than add all the stuff required to flat tow the same vehicle, if the GCVWR isn't exceeded. You might need to add a trailer brake controller to your TV for a few hundred bucks. Maybe another few hundred for a weight distribution hitch with sway control. Of course, the trailer itself will cost a few bucks too, so maybe it's cheaper to go the other route. Maybe a rental place like U-Haul has used utility/car haulers?
For reasonably sized cars and such, a front wheel dolly works very well, is much smaller to deal with when you get to where you are going, and is much cheaper. I don't know if you can get brakes on them or use the rear brakes of the two vehicle.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:42 PM   #12
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
How heavy and expensive would a short flat bed trailer be? Might be easier to pull a small trailer with an electric braking system, than add all the stuff required to flat tow the same vehicle, if the GCVWR isn't exceeded. You might need to add a trailer brake controller to your TV for a few hundred bucks. Maybe another few hundred for a weight distribution hitch with sway control. Of course, the trailer itself will cost a few bucks too, so maybe it's cheaper to go the other route. Maybe a rental place like U-Haul has used utility/car haulers?
For reasonably sized cars and such, a front wheel dolly works very well, is much smaller to deal with when you get to where you are going, and is much cheaper. I don't know if you can get brakes on them or use the rear brakes of the two vehicle.
I'm not sure what the legalities of the wheel dollies might be. In some jurisdictions the minimum braking requirement for trailers is 1500 lbs and over. Not sure if dollies are considered trailers, or what the brake requirements are for using one. With a load, I'd guess they area. I would think you'd have to add the braking and safety equipment markopolo used for his towed, which adds to the cost. Breakaway brake systems may (usually are) also be required on anything over a minimum weight. That was my thinking for suggesting a small trailer, as some of those features may already exist on the trailer. The cheapest route is probably to use a vehicle that can be towed flat without any other mods, using a simple tow bar and breakaway system add ons.
I guess it comes down to adding the equipment to comply with the minimum safety requirements for towing what ever you've got, along the route you plan to take. I was thinking for simplicity, it would be easier to back your towed off a flat bed and do your touring, than to disconnect it, and remove the add ons that are required for safety. Your point about where to leave the tow vehicle and the trailer are valid, though. What works for someone who stays in a campground and can park/leave the tow vehicle and trailer attached, might not work for someone that needs a "stealth" solution in a subdivision or parking lot at a condo or high rise.

The rules for trailer towing (as I have recently found) are interesting. There are some universal constants in most jurisdictions but there are some head scratchers, too, like the maximum towing speeds allowed by State or Province. I haven't vetted these websites for accuracy, but here are a few trailer towing rules and regs. I'm not sure what their scope is either, but they may apply to RV type trailers only, or may cover any towed vehicle.
http://www.camping-canada.com/towing_regulations_e.htm
http://www.rvda.ca/default.asp?action=RVDA_regulations
http://towingworld.com/towinglaws.cfm
http://www.readybrake.com/state_laws.html
http://www.hitchemup.com/statetowinglaws.htm
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:40 AM   #13
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

Here's a couple of photos of how I had the car connected to the Class C. It would be the same with a B.



and keeping an eye on it with the rear view camera

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File Type: jpg towing the car 2.JPG (189.7 KB, 554 views)
File Type: jpg towing the car.JPG (42.0 KB, 554 views)
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:53 AM   #14
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

A flat tow is probably the easiest. No trailer involved for simplicity, but the equipment sounds costly.
It does look simple enough, including the debris deflector. Nice touch!
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:44 AM   #15
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

Markopolo,

I looked up the Protect A Tow. Did you use the universal model to attach to the Class C? It looks too wide for a B. Any thoughts.

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Old 04-19-2013, 01:52 PM   #16
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

Barry - you're right about that. I didn't think of it. The Class C was probably 8 feet wide. My Protect-a-tow would have to be modified to work with my van. I don't know if the folks at Protect-a-tow would make a custom one or not.

Thanks for catching that.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:21 PM   #17
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

Markopolo,

I contacted Protect-a-Tow and found out that they do custom work and will make one for the Sprinter which would add around $40 to the cost. If one has a Roadmaster tow bar setup, they have a Tow Defender product but it sits on top of the tow bar and thus only protects the toad. The Protect-a-Tow fits underneath the tow bar setup and protects everything.

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Old 04-19-2013, 07:45 PM   #18
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

That's good info re: custom sizes.
All my gear shown in the photo (except for the protect-a-tow) is Roadmaster and the protect-a-tow goes under as shown. I think they must have been referring to a tow dolly re: the protect-a-tow having to sit on top.

The protect-a-tow is fairly strong. Mine was full of ice and road sand and salt as I passed through Calgary in an unexpected October snow storm. It held up well with all that extra frozen weight on it - no damage that I could see to the protect-a-tow.

It would be nice if it was wider at the car end. You can see it in the rear view camera photo above. I had few nicks from rocks around the unprotected area where you see the fog lamps in the Ford bumper. I think the conditions where a bit worse than normal with all the little rocks mixed in with salt and sand because of the snow storm. No damage to the hood or windshield in about 4000 miles of towing.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:15 AM   #19
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

Markopolo,

I was referring to Roadmaster having a Tow Defender product that sits on top (not Protect-a Tow).

I expect that when I order a custom width for the Sprinter that I will also be able to specify the exact width I need for the toad. My toad will either be a Honda CRV or the 2014 mini CRV if it has a AWD like the regular CRV. I am not sure the mini CRV will be as wide as the normal CRV which would change the measurements. All I know at this time is that it is about 9" shorter than the CRV.

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Old 04-20-2013, 05:54 PM   #20
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Default Re: Towing a car with class B rv

Thanks again. After re-reading your post it's clear to me what you were referring to now

Customs widths for front and rear on the protect-a-tow would be ideal. If I keep all my equipment I'll have to figure out how to modify it for best protection. Two "pleats" should take care of the van end for me but I wonder if I could reverse the ends but still keep the van end at least as wide as the van tire track.

Right now, without looking or measuring or anything, I think that attaching a 72" long piece of 1" square aluminum tube (or 72" long aluminum angle) across the rear hitch on the van would give me a nice straight piece to attach the protect-a-tow to without having to drill any holes in the van or van rear bumper. The aluminum angle or aluminum tube could be attached to the main hitch cross piece with square U-bolts or hose clamps etc.

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File Type: jpg hitch install 016.jpg (168.4 KB, 639 views)
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