How to repair roadtrek 190 versatile plastic floor?

[ssww]

Hi, I have a 2005 versatile 190. The white floor developed cracks due to wear. What products I can use to fix and refinish it?

[GeorgeRa]

Is this fiberglass with gelcoat coating?

[ssww]

I am not sure. Is there a way to diagnose?

[GeorgeRa]

Acetone (fingernail polish) should dissolve gelcoat but not vinyl. If it is fiberglass/gel coat composite repair will be like a boat gelcoat repair including a layer of fiberglass/polyesther to fix all cracks. If it is a vinyl (PVC solvent for irrigation pipes dissolves it) a new floor would fix it.

[booster]

Our 07 190 developed a crack in the passenger side end of the drainage trough that I fixed. It was non visible so color was not an issue.


It is fiberglass with gelcoat and also as expected is sprayed chop glass in resin and not a layed mat fiberglass. Roadtrek seemed to have a "dry glass" issue in our van as we had it in the floor crack and on the roof andwhich both required repair. Dry glass is where there was not enough resin to hold the glass together well.


I ground out the dry glass and feathered in a couple of layers of mat glass and resin to fix both areas, but of course they don't turn out the right color so I had to paint that area of the roof.


In your case it is currently unknown if you have a full thickness weakness or only a gelcoat crack caused by flexing. You might be able to get a look from under the van to see if the glass looks dry or is soft with a sharp probe. In dry glass you would see glass fibers bulging out a bit, if there is adequate access to that area. If it is weak because of dry glass it would need to be ground out and repaired but if the glass is sound and it is a gelcoat only crack you probably could stop propagation by adding a layer or two of mat on the underside of the floor to strengthen the area to get rid of the flexing, but only if you can get at it. You could then either try to put something in the crack to hide it, or just leave it as is. If you mess with the topside to repair it, the entire floor pan will probably have to be painted to get uniform color and you have to use very good epoxy paint or some other floor rated paint to get decent wear.


I boat repair place can do the work but it is very expensive and they probably don't have vehicle lift. A body shop that does Corvettes could also do it, but it is not cheap.

[phantomjock]

From my experience (boats and Corvettes), I concur with booster's analysis and plan of attack.

I can add maybe a post repair option for your consideration.

There are a number of Deck Paints for fiberglass deck that "wear like a hog's nose," so if/when you get to that point in the effort, you'll have options for coating. May wind up with a quart when you just need a pint, but that is the way it goes. Preparation and application is straight forward - But! Be sure and add ventilation. You'll be working in an enclosed environment!

Best of luck.

Cheers - Jim

[booster]

Originally Posted by phantomjock

From my experience (boats and Corvettes), I concur with booster's analysis and plan of attack.

I can add maybe a post repair option for your consideration.

There are a number of Deck Paints for fiberglass deck that "wear like a hog's nose," so if/when you get to that point in the effort, you'll have options for coating. May wind up with a quart when you just need a pint, but that is the way it goes. Preparation and application is straight forward - But! Be sure and add ventilation. You'll be working in an enclosed environment!

Best of luck.

Cheers - Jim

Is the deck paint something like a sanded epoxy non slip paint? I have seen that type used on stairs and such.

[phantomjock]

Right - There are paints (some one part - some 2). I'd avoid any that have a particulate additive for the interior. I think some of the best (my experience) are the "Total Boat" product. Roller application, flows out and levels. Still, it is what I'd use on an RT interior floor. These product have a "natural rough" finish. Seems to "appear like hammered paint after the application. I'd avoid the course finishes.

As an aside - there are some truck bed paints (light colors?) that might work well too. Again, I like a roll-on application for this kind of job. Use those small trim rollers. I used "Buckshot" on a trailer. Was a designed as spray application (preferred) - but I used the roll on, and was was easy-peasy. And also, tough as nails.

YMMMV.

Cheers - Jim

[booster]

Originally Posted by phantomjock

Right - There are paints (some one part - some 2). I'd avoid any that have a particulate additive for the interior. I think some of the best (my experience) are the "Total Boat" product. Roller application, flows out and levels. Still, it is what I'd use on an RT interior floor. These product have a "natural rough" finish. Seems to "appear like hammered paint after the application. I'd avoid the course finishes.

As an aside - there are some truck bed paints (light colors?) that might work well too. Again, I like a roll-on application for this kind of job. Use those small trim rollers. I used "Buckshot" on a trailer. Was a designed as spray application (preferred) - but I used the roll on, and was was easy-peasy. And also, tough as nails.

YMMMV.

Cheers - Jim

I have used Herculiner truck bed liner often in and outside of vehicles. I have the rear wheelwells in our van done and they have gotten damaged at all from all our stuff banging on them. I think it does come in as least some colors also.


How well do the self leveling paints work on non horizontal surfaces?

[phantomjock]

To be honest, I didn't try those on the cabin side.
We used a basic deck paint for those and it was no problem.
Watch how much paint you carry in the brush/roller and make multiple coats rather than one thick one. Small imperfections can be worked with a buffer.

Cheers - Jim