Level measuring tools

[RT1997]

Since Dometic 3 way fridge has pretty strict level requirements I hope you would share what kind of tools and gadgets you use.I watched some youtube videos.A lot of them advertizing electronic devices.3 degree angle measurement might require some of those.

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by RT1997

3 degree angle measurement might require some of those.

Actually, 3 degrees for the fridge, even though it is a small number, is actually a rather big slant for the van as a whole. Take a look at this post: https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ion-13976.html

[phantomjock]

I picked up one of these:


We keep it on the bottom (base) of the refrigerator. Figured that is the best location to ensure it is level. Because of its shape, it covers all horizontal axes. I an continually surprised how close a site is to level just using the MK1-mod0 eyeball when compared to the level.

Maybe we need to get further afield to challenge that "hypothesis."

Cheers - Jim

[hbn7hj]

The level datum is the bottom of the freezer compartment per the owner’s manual.

I would imagine the bottom of the fridge compartment isn’t much different.

[jjrbus]

Not so strict for my fridge according to the owners manual. Comfortable to walk in is the standard set.

I am using Camper Level app, just started but looks very promising! I have used a variety of things and this beats all of them. https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...hl=en_US&gl=US

[Urlauber]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

I am using Camper Level app, just started but looks very promising! I have used a variety of things and this beats all of them. https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...hl=en_US&gl=US

That thing will spam you to death.
For me, a simple bubble leveler, glued to the kitchen counter, resembles the good old KISS method.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EDSSDO
Under $3 when on sale.

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by Urlauber

That thing will spam you to death.
For me, a simple bubble leveler, glued to the kitchen counter, resembles the good old KISS method.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EDSSDO
Under $3 when on sale.

Since I traded the conastoga wagon for that automobile been getting some spam. The app is free, can pay a few dollars and get ad free.

[dingo]

Originally Posted by Urlauber

That thing will spam you to death.
For me, a simple bubble leveler, glued to the kitchen counter, resembles the good old KISS method.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EDSSDO
Under $3 when on sale.

Agree, been using this one for years and it works great, just keep it handy.

TIP: First verify another surface like a countertop or table is the same as the fridge bottom, then you can check for the fridge being level by checking the other surface. Much easier than getting in the fridge to check.

[kml123@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Urlauber

That thing will spam you to death.
For me, a simple bubble leveler, glued to the kitchen counter, resembles the good old KISS method.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EDSSDO
Under $3 when on sale.

Isn't the longer the level the more accurate it is?

[booster]

Originally Posted by kml123@gmail.com

Isn't the longer the level the more accurate it is?

Not necessarily. Levels are specified to an accuracy that is given decimal inches of error for a given distance of level length like and inch or foot.


.003" per foot would be an example.


That said, a longer level will give better results if you are going over uneven surfaces, like on the might have dips in it, as long as you are sitting on the end points that you want level to each other.


Stuck to a dash or counter top, length doesn't mean any benefit, but the rated accuracy does.

[Urlauber]

Originally Posted by kml123@gmail.com

Isn't the longer the level the more accurate it is?

Totally! For precision work, I pull out my 2ft level. To prevent rolling out of the bed, a short one, calibrated on a level street, works great.

[Ken Allan]

@phantomjock... FYI
I have a couple of these large bubble levels too. I thought these are great as they are very accurate at 1-2-3 degree markings. After checking, I found the markings are NOT what they appear to be. The 1-2-3 just indicate the degrees between those hash marks.

I used a digital level and re-marked the rings, and while it's ugly it does a great fast job on the counter to give me a quick level indication.

While I don't really care about my compressor fridge I personally have a hard time walking around if we are off more than about the 3°.
bubble_level-1.jpg

[booster]

Originally Posted by Ken Allan

@phantomjock... FYI
I have a couple of these large bubble levels too. I thought these are great as they are very accurate at 1-2-3 degree markings. After checking, I found the markings are NOT what they appear to be. The 1-2-3 just indicate the degrees between those hash marks.

I used a digital level and re-marked the rings, and while it's ugly it does a great fast job on the counter to give me a quick level indication.

While I don't really care about my compressor fridge I personally have a hard time walking around if we are off more than about the 3°.
Attachment 14456

What do those numbers actually mean? I hope it is not degrees even though plastic levels are never great for accuracy, it shouldn't be that bad.


I still haven't figured out what the "each division is 5/1000" with no units. Could it be .005" per foot like a lot of levels are stated for accuracy?

[RT1997]

[QUOTE=Ken Allan;151456]@phantomjock... FYI
I have a couple of these large bubble levels too. I thought these are great as they are very accurate at 1-2-3 degree markings. After checking, I found the markings are NOT what they appear to be. The 1-2-3 just indicate the degrees between those hash marks.

I used a digital level and re-marked the rings, and while it's ugly it does a great fast job on the counter to give me a quick level indication.

/QUOTE]
Could you explain how you checked the markings and determined that they are not acccurate ?
If possible please add the pic. of your corrections.

[JohnnyFry]

Wow! That level seriously underestimates the actual angle. Thanks for posting this as I am sure many would take it at face value.

[TX-Trek]

Originally Posted by JohnnyFry

Wow! That level seriously underestimates the actual angle. Thanks for posting this as I am sure many would take it at face value.

Lol, it's actually fairly close, camera angle not 100%. Half a bubble is about 2 pads. Purposely, raises the back slightly so we don't sleep with heads lower than feet. I should have been more precise I guess - it's the internet.
But anyway....... back to the main point. Electronic gadgets are great, depending on your view, but not always needed. For me, this gets the job done just fine, zero fridge issues. Level bubbles = level van. Tweak to your own preference.

[booster]

A lot of it depends on how picky you are.

For me, personally, I like the bed to be less than 2" unlevel which is about two degrees for our track width. That is also about two degrees. One degree is much better and what I shoot for. Front to rear is also about 1 degree or two inches. On our bullseye level that is about where the bubble is a partial overlap of the first ring outside the center ring. The level is mounted to match the level of the bed. So the 3* or a gas frig wasn't the limiting factor when camped, but often was where we parked at trails and other POI.

The good is that even I have a range of accuracy need of at least on block side to side and two end to end, so the levels don't have to all that accurate, just repeatable so you aren't chasing bad information from the level with the blocks.

One thing I will tell everyone, and that I have tested quite a bit, is that digital levels are notoriously inaccurate from all I have found.

I would encourage everyone to do the old machinery installer/millwrite test of any level you need to rely on. I have done all of mine from the 8" pocket ones to the 8' long one. I checked the bullseye level in the van just for fun and it doesn't have any numbers on it anyway, just rings. It was not correct at center but I mounted it in a silicone blob so I could set the bubble in center with the van preleveled with my good levels off the full time bed.

The test is exceptionally simple to as long as you have flat surface to use. It does not have to be exactly level, though. You will also need a set of feeling gauges or other thin items of known thickness.

* Put the level on the surface and mark around it with a pencil so you car replicate the location exactly. I usually use a pencil line on the level and surface on each end and side in the middle of them. Just line up the lines that way.

* Shim whichever end of the level is low until it reads dead level, noting how shim you put under it

* Carefully lift up the level leaving the shims in place and turn it around 180 degrees and set it back down in the same place on the surface and shims.

* It should read the same dead center, and if it doesn't reshim it to dead center and again note how much shim is under it.

* The difference in the amount of shim needed to get dead level is how much inaccuracy is in the level.

* With a bullseye level you would do it twice, just mark the 90* points on it's perimeter.

Once you know the accuracy you can allow for it by marking the ends of the level is you want to.

On a bullseye, you can also determine what each ring will take to level your van, although the small diameter makes it somewhat hard to do unless you put on a surface that is bigger and you can shim the surface instead.

For reference here are some accuracy specs I quickly found.

* Top quality carpenter level .006" per foot

* Machinist level .005" per foot

* Machinist master level.0005" per foot

* Normal $40 electronic level you need to look at two specs and try make out what the true accuracy is.

I think the electronic one are in the .05" per foot or more based on the specs and what I measured. You need to look at both accuracy if they list it and resolution of the display to see the true accuracy of the reading. The tests showed me the ones I tested were worse than specs, as were both our phones with apps on them.

[Estoniankid]

Complete virgin, newbie here. Rented a Navion for a week so I have some knowledge.

Never owned, let alone leveled an RV before

Buying a new a '24 model from a high quality manufacturer for peace of mind.
Yes I know I should buy used, but scared I might end up with someone else's nightmare. Let's just say I can afford to take the depreciation hit and I'm not selling my house. Lost my wife to breast cancer and need to get out of the house before I start getting any crazier.

I'm getting up in age and it's now or never to experience and enjoy the open road and see all the wonders of North America. Will have lithium package so dry camping and boondocking will be feasible.

This leveling thing is something I didn't worry about with the rental.

Reading this thread, will these tools be sufficient to get me level enough to avoid damaging the fridge?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EDSSDO


Are these the correct lego leveling blocks?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7BSK625...hlbWF0aWM&th=1


Or are these the correct ones?

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Levelin...00480BWCI?th=1

Thanks for any help you can provide

[jjrbus]

Like everything else people are different and have different camping styles, one person will go to camp snowshoe for 3 weeks and another like me stays no more than 2 nights when traveling. So we have different ideas and opinions.

I have used various levels over the years none of which I would say are bad. Mostly used scrap wood as levels. Wood can be slippery when wet so I painted and poured coarse sand into the wet paint. I ordered a set of the curved roll on levels and sent them back. I am anal about tires and the ramps are much narrower than the tires so have the potential to damage them. I made my own wider roll on levelers, yup out of scrap wood!

I am experimenting was a phone app leveler called camper leveler which is showing great promise.

The narrow ramps are not just my opinion, Roger is a tire engineer with decades of experience. https://www.rvtiresafety.net/search/...eling%20blocks

[TX-Trek]

Agreed, lots of personal preference. I've used these for several years, as mentioned, one right above driver on front panel, the other above driver on side panel.
The panels I'm talking about are related to our 210 configuration, but essentially side to side and front to back.

I like the Lego pads, easier to store and stack. I also keep a couple of 2×4 blocks in case I need more leveling capability.