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Old 07-31-2017, 06:34 PM   #341
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Some lessons from our ongoing dealer experience trying to buy this CS Adventurous for those who might be interested. I should have studied a bit more before I bought the airline ticket but I'm grateful the dealer let me test out the unit extensively before hand. Hoping it gets fixed so we can purchase it soon.

https://convotrek.blogspot.com/2017/...-bad-ugly.html
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Old 07-31-2017, 06:41 PM   #342
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Thanks! That red LCD display would be hard to miss when it's working properly. Looks pretty bright.
I just talked with Balmar and got some clarification on the MC-614. BTW, these people are top notch. You call, and right away you are talking to a competent technical support person that gives you the straight dope.

This PDF has a pictorial of how the regulator is supposed to be connected to the alternator.

http://www.balmar.net/wp-content/upl...For-Review.pdf

BTW, I stand corrected regarding a previous post of mine. I thought that the 10 amp fuse was protection for a field winding short. This is not the case. That fuse protects the power input for the regulator on Pin 2. If it's blown (which in your case, it isn't) there would be no display. Also, if there is no power on Pin 3 on ignition, there would be no display.

With respect to the display, here's the bottom line: if Pin 1 shows ground, Pin 2 shows battery voltage and Pin 3 shows battery voltage, the display is maintained even if the battery voltage sense fuse at Pin 9 is blown. There is one exception: the regulator has an internal breaker that opens power in the event of unacceptably high module temperature, but unless it is defective, the breaker automatically resets when temp drops down.

I don't know why they removed the regulator for trouble shooting since the Balmar manual has a testing procedure while it's in place.

The Balmar tech is interested in what you determine to be the problem.
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Old 07-31-2017, 06:46 PM   #343
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I just talked with Balmar and got some clarification on the MC-614. BTW, these people are top notch. You call, and right away you are talking to a competent technical support person that gives you the straight dope.

This PDF has a pictorial of how the regulator is supposed to be connected to the alternator.

http://www.balmar.net/wp-content/upl...For-Review.pdf

BTW, I stand corrected regarding a previous post of mine. I thought that the 10 amp fuse was protection for a field winding short. This is not the case. That fuse protects the power input for the regulator on Pin 2. If it's blown (which in your case, it isn't) there would be no display. Also, if there is no power on Pin 3 on ignition, there would be no display.

With respect to the display, here's the bottom line: if Pin 1 shows ground, Pin 2 shows battery voltage and Pin 3 shows battery voltage, the display is maintained even if the battery voltage sense fuse at Pin 9 is blown. There is one exception: the regulator has an internal breaker that opens power in the event of unacceptably high module temperature, but unless it is defective, the breaker automatically resets when temp drops down.

I don't know why they removed the regulator for trouble shooting since the Balmar manual has a testing procedure while it's in place.

The Balmar tech is interested in what you determine to be the problem.
Awesome, thanks! I'll pass that info on and maybe the dealer here will contact them.
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Old 07-31-2017, 06:55 PM   #344
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.

You should ask the web admin to split this thread from the first post on your acceptance testing.

The new thread will become the reference thread for all future acceptances.
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:01 PM   #345
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.

What was wrong with the fridge?
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:02 PM   #346
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.

You should ask the web admin to split this thread from the first post on your acceptance testing.

The new thread will become the reference thread for all future acceptances.
I defer to you smarter guys on that one. If others learn from my mistakes, well buckle up and get ready to learn a lot
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:04 PM   #347
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What was wrong with the fridge?
Not sure. Other than it was not refrigerating or freezing, despite the lights being powered on. If I had to guess I would think it was lacking freon or something but I don't even know if it uses that.
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:08 PM   #348
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RT had paid for hotel and car rental during some warranty work.
It does not hurt to ask for reimbursement.
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:10 PM   #349
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Not sure. Other than it was not refrigerating or freezing, despite the lights being powered on. If I had to guess I would think it was lacking freon or something but I don't even know if it uses that.
It uses ammonia. It is a closed circuit; there is no chance of leaking.


It has happened to some RVs (not just RT) that the fridge was not plugged in from the factory. You would think the QC should have noticed that.
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:16 PM   #350
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.

You should ask the web admin to split this thread from the first post on your acceptance testing.

The new thread will become the reference thread for all future acceptances.
Even though it is fairly long and covers the prepurchase stuff and some sidelines, IMO, leaving it as is would be my first choice.

It shows the entire process we all go through in deciding on this kind of stuff, including all the opinions of others with their very large range.

In looking back, I don't know how it could have gone better for the pre-delivery inspection unless you did hire someone who is very Roadtrek knowledgeable to do it before you went to get the unit. Once there you have tough decisions about whether to stay or go home for a while.

It does point out the advantage that folks have that manage to work with a local dealer, although that isn't always possible.

It is a shame that the excitement of a new (and expensive) RV can be knocked back by unnecessary problems like this, which just shouldn't happen.
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