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Old 08-06-2017, 12:18 PM   #521
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Are you sure you have the air conditioner running and not just the fan thats in the air conditioner?.. you need to set the Fan on AU and then set the air conditioner on. Have you practiced sliding the vents on the air conditioner? there are 3. one at each end and the one that lets full blast straight down in the middle. also a fan on the floor helps with spreading the air around
Yes on the sliding vents and yes *I think* on turning the AC on. I do it like the dealer did it. Cycle through mode to make it high and then set the temp to 55F and it shows a little snowflake and then kicks on.
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Old 08-06-2017, 12:24 PM   #522
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Yes on the sliding vents and yes *I think* on turning the AC on. I do it like the dealer did it. Cycle through mode to make it high and then set the temp to 55F and it shows a little snowflake and then kicks on.
study this to make sure using correctly.

If you set fan for hi ot always comes on with or without the air conditioner actually being on. the only way to tell-for sure- is to set the FAN for AU

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/opera...313327.037.pdf
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Old 08-06-2017, 12:39 PM   #523
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I can't think of a way to wire the two solar controllers to do anything other than charge all the online Ecotreks plus the AGM from both solar controllers. The Ecotreks are all connected in parallel on the charge and load terminal sides so any charge and load connections are connected to all the Ecotreks that are online.
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Old 08-06-2017, 12:53 PM   #524
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"If you set fan for hi ot always comes on with or without the air conditioner actually being on. the only way to tell-for sure- is to set the FAN for AU"

I've been wondering for awhile. How about just sticking one's hand next to the vent? Is it cold? like home, car, etc.?

Bud
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Old 08-06-2017, 01:45 PM   #525
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"If you set fan for hi ot always comes on with or without the air conditioner actually being on. the only way to tell-for sure- is to set the FAN for AU"

I've been wondering for awhile. How about just sticking one's hand next to the vent? Is it cold? like home, car, etc.?

Bud
the only Hi or lo on control is for the fan. If you want the fan to just come on when the air conditioner actually comes on the fan must be AU(auto).

when you set control for air conditioner the air conditioner is controlled by what temperature you have the thermostat at.
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:07 PM   #526
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Originally Posted by gerrym51 View Post
study this to make sure using correctly.

If you set fan for hi ot always comes on with or without the air conditioner actually being on. the only way to tell-for sure- is to set the FAN for AU

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/opera...313327.037.pdf
Thank you sir! Will add that to the blog post dedicated to the A/C. It's a softball of a day today with the high at 72 and mostly cloudy and the van is cold from the night of 55 and no heat being used. After 30 minutes of the AC set to 55F and the ambient being about the same, the van is keeping 56F while on shore power.

Will log performance all day today to see how it does. It should be easy for it to stay at 55 given the parameters but even now it's still 1 degree warmer. I suspect that will grow throughout the day.
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:33 PM   #527
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Your math is spot on but I think you're leveling your volley at the wrong target. The losses involved here are not from a battery with chemistry that invites excessive local discharge. Lithium bstteries seem to have local discharge rates equal to or lower than AGMs. The culprit is the BMS that uses power totally disproportionate to to what should be necessary to fulfill it's mission. The sensors that simply monitor temperature, voltage, power delivery and charge rates involve circuitry operating a signal levels. The remaining viable suspect are the BMS power relays that control the load and charging ports. Redesigned to use bi-stable relays, I don't think the "parasitic" loss would be any higher than it is on the Silverleaf system.

Now whether these lithium batteries provide the return on investment compared to a slug of AGMs that admittedly may have a shorter service life than lithiums, well, that's a different kettle of fish. The RT 6 year non-prorated warranty alleviates some concern with this yet to be determined equation. The incidence of the number and the depth of discharge of these batteries will largely depend on how they are used. Paradoxically,for RT, the larger the battery bank they install, the less likely there will be battery failures within the warranty period but the more likely there will be failures from overworked inverters and altternators.
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lithium battery system
is how I stated it, so certainly not inditing all lithium batteries, as it appears to be only Roadtrek that loses anywhere near this much to parasitic.

I was also not saying AGMs were more or less economical in the long or short run, as that is a totally different discussion. I probably should have stated that "wet cell SYSTEMS typically lose that much" to be consistent, and brought it up because lithium systems usually tout their superiority in having very low parasitic losses (at least when stored).

My point on cost is that to get the same real world capacity as other lithium systems, a Roadtrek system has to be larger by at least one module which is not a cheap bandaid to put on, and the customer pays it thinking they are getting more usable capacity than another system of lesser size, which is probably not going to happen. It also totally mucks up their calculations of how long they can run things, as they wouldn't know they need to take of 100ish AH per day for the parasitic, Which is more than 1/2 the usable of a module. If folks are leaving more than one module on at a time to run AC or such, you could need two or more extra modules to compare to other lithium systems. Are the extra modules still in the $3500 range or have the come down?

Until there is a monitoring system that will work on a Roadtrek system and includes parasitic loss, it won't be visible to folks how much power is going to waste, and I am sure that is how Roadtrek would like it to stay.

How many systems do you think Roadtrek would sell if they told you that there is no way to leave the van 2 days unattended, without a charging source, without it going dead before you got back, as any module that is on will have emptied by then just from parasitic. Add a frig at 50ah per day and some other little stuff and it will be sooner than that, even for a 1600ah system. Without an auto switching setup for the modules, that is what you will get. Our 440ah AGM system can easily go over a week with the frig on unattended and uncharged. A plain old vanilla two wet battery system with a compressor frig will go at least 3-4 days.
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Old 08-06-2017, 04:30 PM   #528
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I'm not sure how much parasitic is lost with these lithium batteries, but at this point it seems pretty academic to me whatever the number is.

I had full batteries when I pulled into Wal-Mart at 1pm. I left the following morning at 7am. I had only one EcoTrek on and powered the F fan the entire time, used the microwave to cook food twice, had my iphone and laptop and cell internet and Google Home powered the whole time and used the water pump from time to time. I never idled the engine or plugged into shore power (obviously).

When I left before the sun came up the next morning, that battery still had more than half of its juice. I'm guessing the sun would have charged it up considerably had I stayed.

This is plenty of power.
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Old 08-06-2017, 04:36 PM   #529
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................... that battery still had more than half of its juice......................
I'd like to know how you are figuring out the remaining capacity ............. Is it just a total guess?
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Old 08-06-2017, 05:35 PM   #530
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SoC curve of an LiFEPO4 cell (4 cells in series in 12V systems)



There's so little voltage difference between 90% SoC & 20% SoC.
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