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Old 06-17-2016, 05:30 PM   #1
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Default Dometic 3-Way Electronic Fridge Impressions?

Hello All!

My 99 Xplorer has a working 3-way Dometic RM2310. I hate the controls on the floor, and am considering an upgrade. There have been two more generations of the 3.8(?) cubic foot 3-way fridge produced since mine. The RM2350 is manual, with controls on the top of the fridge, but is no longer produced. The RM2354 is electronically controlled at the top panel, but is available only in black now, which I'm not crazy about.

What are people's experiences with the RM2354 electronic model? Do you like it? Is it reliable? Should I upgrade?

Thanks for your opinions.

Gerard
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:50 PM   #2
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Sure. The 2354 works fine. I gave it an idependent path to 12 volt power so that everything else could be off and it still run. I put a fan on the back which I seldom use.

The major problem I have had with it: When you load the door it will droop enough that the door latch will release in a left hand turn. A work around is to wedge a cushion against the door when traveling. I have installed an aftermarket latch for the coming season and will let you know if it works. We don't start traveling till September. Never had that problem with the 2310.
Harry 2003 C190P Roadtrek
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:47 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hbn7hj View Post
Sure. The 2354 works fine. I gave it an idependent path to 12 volt power so that everything else could be off and it still run. I put a fan on the back which I seldom use.

The major problem I have had with it: When you load the door it will droop enough that the door latch will release in a left hand turn. A work around is to wedge a cushion against the door when traveling. I have installed an aftermarket latch for the coming season and will let you know if it works. We don't start traveling till September. Never had that problem with the 2310.
Harry 2003 C190P Roadtrek
Does this automatic model restart the propane flame if it goes out? Ours has gone out several times during use, and if you don't know it and restart it manually, no more cooling!

The latch problem sounds like something fixable...maybe a minor problem?

Thanks,

Gerard
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:29 PM   #4
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Never had a problem with the flame going out but it does retry before turning the check light on. I suggest the following temperture sensor and have it in sight when driving.

https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-Refri.../dp/B004QJVU78

The best thing I have done is put a 30 amp relay in line with the DC heater controlled by the alternator output. (Center tap on isolator) When the engine turns off, the DC heater is off. This means you don't have to do anything when you pull up to the gas pumps or stop off level for a short period of time.

The door thing is not minor when the refrigerator unloads on the floor in the middle of a city. The solutions are not difficult from keeping weight off the door, jamming the door closed with cushions or adding another latch. Maybe new models are fixed.
Harry
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:09 AM   #5
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I also have the same fridge. On this last trip, we noticed it didn't seem to be closing all the way. We used a piece of paper in the latch to make it close more completely. We are considering getting a new gasket, which (cheapest) would cost $117 + $90 installation, or a new door $220, + $45 installation. Other option is to keep using the paper.
Or I could buy a new fridge because I hate the controls on the floor also. You have to stand on your head to see if the flame is still on.
This is the original fridge in a 1997 RV. Would it be better to buy a whole new fridge, try to get a new gasket, or stay with the paper? Opinions?
Oh, and I found you can also replace this one with a RM2351 as well as the RM 2354.
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Old 06-18-2016, 03:23 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soohma View Post
I also have the same fridge. On this last trip, we noticed it didn't seem to be closing all the way. We used a piece of paper in the latch to make it close more completely. We are considering getting a new gasket, which (cheapest) would cost $117 + $90 installation, or a new door $220, + $45 installation. Other option is to keep using the paper.
Or I could buy a new fridge because I hate the controls on the floor also. You have to stand on your head to see if the flame is still on.
This is the original fridge in a 1997 RV. Would it be better to buy a whole new fridge, try to get a new gasket, or stay with the paper? Opinions?
Oh, and I found you can also replace this one with a RM2351 as well as the RM 2354.
The old RM2310 has a small rotating plastic catch, with two settings. Is yours still intact? Maybe the tight portion has broken?

Here is a link to the catch on ebay. I've been looking for one for a long time...Dometic doesn't make it any more, so it looks like this guy started making them himself.

If the link doesn't come through, search for RM2310 Latch.

Gerard

Dometic Refrigerator Travel Latch RM2301 RM2401 RM2310 | eBay
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Old 06-18-2016, 03:29 AM   #7
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Just an opinion but an RV needs a 3-way fridge. I, too, traveled many a mile with propane on and a flame burning. I got away with it but won't do it anymore. The hassle of turning off the flame before pulling up to the pumps is solved by putting it in DC mode while moving with a relay in the DC element circuit. The fridge remains on and starts cooling again when the engine starts.

I know people that do not turn off a propane fridge when they pull up to the pumps. I try to keep my distance from any RV at the pumps. Once, failing to turn mine off a stream of fuel flowed underneath my RV from a spill. I turned it off ASAP and never did it again.

Replace your 2310 with a 3-way fridge.
Harry
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Old 06-18-2016, 03:37 AM   #8
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I actually have a 3-way fridge now. I have been leaving it in propane, but find the flame goes out not infrequently. So I can use propane, electric (which I think is the house battery?) or 120? Is that right? And I should use the 120 because it will be charged as I drive? Have I got all this correct?
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Old 06-18-2016, 05:14 AM   #9
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Nope, you should use the DC setting while driving because the battery is being charged by the alternator. When the alternator is off the fridge should be turned off of DC which is the purpose of the relay.

Should you not have the knowledge to install the relay then when the engine is off you need to turn the fridge off at the fuel pumps.
Harry
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Old 06-18-2016, 01:24 PM   #10
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If you have an electrical system to support it, seriously consider upgrading to a DC compressor fridge. My old rig had an absorption fridge, and although it worked well for what it was, I have NEVER regretted my decision to go with a compressor fridge this time around. The experience is just so much better in every way. I would never go back. All the issues discussed here just go away, as well as several others (such as leveling requirements). The power issue is real, but only if you dry camp.

If you do stay with a 3-way and have problems with running at 12VDC, one option is to run at 120VAC while driving, running through an inverter. Less efficient, but it doesn't really matter when powered from your alternator, and it addresses most of these issues.
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