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Old 01-07-2024, 03:56 AM   #21
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Looking at the spec there are some mighty currents could be flowing during these microseconds long surges either frying MOVs or gently desapearing in our mother Earth.
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Old 01-07-2024, 02:13 PM   #22
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No I do not. Waste of money. The breaker at the pedestal is adequate protection for the shore power cable. I would simply mount the Leviton surge suppressor as close to the vehicle entry as possible. There is nothing upstream of there that would be damaged by a surge anyway.
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I didn't realize my Xantrex XC Pro 3000 provided shore power protection until I read the manual a few minutes ago. Thanks for that.

There is a section of wiring in our class B that isn't protected from incoming shore power; the 30 feet of cable between the pedestal and the receptacle on the side of the van, and the 5' of Romex between that receptacle and my Xantrex 3000. Do you feel a portable external EMS plugged into the pedestal is worthwhile for the 35' of cable/wiring I listed?
FWIW, Our RT is parked in our driveway during the winter months and is plugged into house power 24/7. A few winters ago, after a snowstorm, I jammed the 25 foot 30 amp shore power cord into the snowblower auger. There were serious scuff marks, but no cuts on the wire. However, the more serious damage went unnoticed until the following camping season when we started getting shocks while touching certain areas of the RV when the ground was wet. We replaced the cable and the problem went away. IIRC we were using our pedestal mounted progressive surge protector.
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Old 01-07-2024, 08:09 PM   #23
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I agree with Punkinhead....
In my research the Hughes models offer the best protection and they have a cheap easy way to repair them if you do get a massive spike issue that happens to cause damage.
Check them out on the web.
I just changed RVs so need a different Surge Protector and I'm going to buy another Hughes as I trust them 100%.
If you go cheap; one day you will end up paying large for the mistake. If you camp long enough and as much as we do be careful with this. This is one area you do not want to cut corners and there are a lot of campsites that have bad electrical issues. Good Luck!
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Old 01-07-2024, 09:05 PM   #24
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I agree with Punkinhead....
In my research the Hughes models offer the best protection and they have a cheap easy way to repair them if you do get a massive spike issue that happens to cause damage.
Check them out on the web.
I just changed RVs so need a different Surge Protector and I'm going to buy another Hughes as I trust them 100%.
If you go cheap; one day you will end up paying large for the mistake. If you camp long enough and as much as we do be careful with this. This is one area you do not want to cut corners and there are a lot of campsites that have bad electrical issues. Good Luck!
I haven't seen anyone on this thread suggest "going cheap". I believe that there is a consensus that proper protection is very important.

But, please don't confuse this with the issue of the pointlessness of paying for protection that you already have. What kind of inverter/charger do you have? Does it have power quality analysis? As I have said, most high-end units do, and if so, paying hundreds of dollars to get it again buys you precisely nothing (except for taking twice as long for the power to come on after plugging in). If you have a unit that lacks these features, by all means purchase a quality power analyzer. But, forgoing a feature you already have is not "going cheap". If all you need is surge suppression, the fact is that a good, name brand residential surge suppressor will provide superior protection for much less money than the "we have lots of joules" guys.

BTW: For anyone who may be curious, the reason the standards organizations discourage the use of the "joules" statistic has to do with the way these alleged "joules" are delivered. Many of the manufacturers touting high joule numbers do so by simply putting multiple MOVs in parallel and adding their individual joule ratings together to produce the advertised values. Typically, no testing is involved. The problem is that it doesn't work that way. Although two perfectly-matched MOVs would indeed be additive in protection, in real life, unless the units are carefully matched, they will have different threshold voltages, and so one will tend to "hog" the current from the other. Worse, they often fail short-circuit, which would render the other ones useless.

For these reasons, you want a surge suppressor whose manufacturer reports detailed test statistics, not just "joule" measurements. The Leviton device I referenced does so (and doesn't even bother with the semi-meaningless "joule" value).

Bottom line: By all means don't "go cheap". But nor should you fall into believing that simply spending money will improve results. Take the time to understand your real needs, and buy accordingly. ...and don't fall into the "joule trap".
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Old 01-07-2024, 11:54 PM   #25
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........
BTW: For anyone who may be curious, the reason the standards organizations discourage the use of the "joules" statistic has to do with the way these alleged "joules" are delivered. Many of the manufacturers touting high joule numbers do so by simply putting multiple MOVs in parallel and adding their individual joule ratings together to produce the advertised values. Typically, no testing is involved. The problem is that it doesn't work that way. Although two perfectly-matched MOVs would indeed be additive in protection, in real life, unless the units are carefully matched, they will have different threshold voltages, and so one will tend to "hog" the current from the other. Worse, they often fail short-circuit, which would render the other ones useless.

For these reasons, you want a surge suppressor whose manufacturer reports detailed test statistics, not just "joule" measurements. The Leviton device I referenced does so (and doesn't even bother with the semi-meaningless "joule" value).

Bottom line: By all means don't "go cheap". But nor should you fall into believing that simply spending money will improve results. Take the time to understand your real needs, and buy accordingly. ...and don't fall into the "joule trap".
I didn’t know why Joules were dumped by Leviton, a few years ago they were specified by Joules. Thank you for the explanation. Home Depot still has the spec of 3400 Joules for Leviton 51110 but Leviton folks don’t. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-SRG/202993881
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Old 01-08-2024, 10:00 AM   #26
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BTW, I lost the solar panel off the roof twice. I think the design of using a glue is a poor one because the wind can catch the edge and will eventually get it loose. My nephew is willing to put a bolt and nut through the roof but with it being fiberglass....yea, I'm not that brave. I'll just go without for now.
I presume these were thin flexible solar panels? If you put a panel back up there, use Eternabond tape around the edges, especially the leading edge where wind may catch it and cause it to lift up. Ideally, put it around the entire perimeter off the panel, overlapping the solar panel and the roof. Sorry about your solar panel.

You can buy replacement panels at Amazon: https://a.co/d/c2FiWgP or https://a.co/d/hCFx0et

Good luck!
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Old 01-09-2024, 06:11 PM   #27
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Thanks on the advice about the panel. That is the panel type we have - the flexible panel. We had the edges covered this last time we installed it - I think it is just a poor design on fiberglass. We'll see. I don't really see me trying again as it feels like a bit of a waste of money and time.
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