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Old 09-19-2023, 07:16 PM   #1
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: AL
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Default Replacing house batts? 2008 RT Popular

Are my house batteries dead, dying and just need to be replaced?

I have 2008 RoadTrek. Went out for my monthly "run the generator a couple of hours" maintenance routine. Could not get the generator to turn over, though it was trying (clicking). Started the vehicle, let it run a bit, presumably charging the house batts and generator started right up. Couple of weeks later, same scenario and same outcome. My gut tells me they are in need of a change. Unfortunately I don't know how old they are and the stamped in date code is not readily accessible. I do know they are at 3.5 years old, as that is when I bought the vehicle from a dealer.

My questions:

1. Any harm in continuing with the weak batteries for the short term at least, provided I understand I need to be on Shore Power or Engine if batteries being used

2. When I do change the batteries any recommendations as to changing technologies (Li, etc) I really do not want to have to mess around with new inverters, charging devices, etc. however.

3. Prior to changing them out, is there any way to blow a little more life into these. I presume they are sealed, though it does seem there are ways to add water or check electrolyte.

Current set up is Interstate GC2-HD-AGM (see picture)
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File Type: jpg Van House Batts.jpg (116.7 KB, 15 views)
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Old 09-20-2023, 12:12 AM   #2
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Location: Texas
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Likely your batteries are done. But you can check and clean terminal connections to make sure they are making good contact. Nothing lost since you'll need to do this for new batteries anyway.

You can also check and top out battery water, but if they're way down and you just put in distilled water, you may dilute the remaining electrolytes so it may not be a good idea.

To switch to lithium requires a new lithium compatible inverter/charger, solar controller, and a dc to dc charger between your chassis battery and your new lithium coach batteries. Some may tell you there is a drop-in lithium replacement value that will work with your existing components. But your batteries won't be happy, you'll likely shorten their life severely, and could harm your chassis alternator if you don't have the proper charging profiles.

If you want to pay a couple of grand for the full lithium upgrade (providing your own labor), you can nuke burritos in your microwave with just 200AH of lithium batteries. Ask me how I know.
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Old 09-24-2023, 06:08 PM   #3
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If I were you I'd forget lithium batteries and just get two sealed AGM batteries...Full River makes an excellent product. They will cost you around $400 each and probably last 4 to 5 years.....

Unless your vehicle is wired for lithium and I'll bet it's not skip the cost of the batteries and the retrofit.
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Old 09-24-2023, 06:19 PM   #4
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It seems you must not have a charger that indicates the extent of charge in the batteries. If so, why not get a portable one and charge your existing batteries to be sure they are at 100%? Then revisit the generator starting issue. and also commit to repeating the battery charging once per month year round.
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Old 09-24-2023, 10:58 PM   #5
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OP, it he has original size batteries would probably have the two GC2 batteries in a single compartment and the charger would be a Tripplite 4 amp smart charger with 700 watt modified sine wave inverter.

That would mean about 200-210ah of AGM batteries so about 1560 usable if in good condtion.

The simplest is to just get new AGM batteries and put them in. Going to the very expensive ones is probably not justified unless you have charging that is good enough to benefit from improved life with them and that equipment is very hard to justify. Lifeline and Full River are good but probably not worth the cost with your system.

There would likely be 80 amps limited alternator charging with the vat running, and shore power and generator would both run through the Tripplite and be limited to amps charging.

There would be idiot lights on the control panel to show, poorly, the state of charge of the batteries, so installing a quality shunt base monitor would be a good investment IMO.
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Old 09-25-2023, 01:47 AM   #6
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Location: Ohio
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Since you're not sure if the batteries are good I would suggest taking them to an auto parts store, AutoZone, Napa, etc, and have them charge and test them. Most places do it for free. Then at least you'll know for sure if the batteries are the problem.
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Old 09-27-2023, 05:13 AM   #7
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if you are keeping the RV at your house i would, after you replace the batteries, get a battery trickle charger to keep them up or if you have solar make sure the panel can get some sun on them.. better to get a small trickle charger and just run extension cord to it to keep starting and RV coach batteries up.

You can go to lithium which depending on your level of mechanical ability is not hard or expensive. you can get almost drop in 200 ah lithium for 500 bucks and you standard charger will keep them in good shape despite what other will say..

I have 600 watts on RV with 2-230 ah lithium and for the most part the solar keep them happy charging to 13.7 volts with MPPT Victron bluetooth controller. contrary to popular belief you don't need to charge lithium to 14.1 volts to get good service.. charging to 13.7 or 13.4 will result in longer life with a slight loss of ah capacity.. to find out more i suggest you check out,, Off Grid Garage, Andy on Youtube.. he does a lot of testing and measuring.. plus your standard lead battery convertor will do a fine job of charging lithium when needed.

My charger is usually unplugged from power. I use it every so often to bring my batteries back up when there are many days on shade,clouds or rain and it does fine.. it charge with 13.8 volts and being a 45 amp model and a 3 stage looks at volts on startup and ramp up amps as well, over time decreasing amp as the batteries start getting topped off.. no need to spend money to by new "lithium" charger unless you want to spend the money in my opinion.

The DC to DC might be needed on these units due to the amount of amps lithiums can take which in some cases can cause the standard 130 amp alternator to overheat. the DC to DC controls the amps flow keeping it in the safe range.. On my pull behind trailer the 7 pin can only muster like 2 amps so the DC to DC is not needed..

check out Will Prowse at as well.. lots of good DIY info on batteries, controllers, BMS, etc. over the long run litium will cost more up front by like 24% over agm but will last longer, give better power for longer and be less maintenance.
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Old 09-27-2023, 04:53 PM   #8
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Default House batteries

Just replaced ours w/2 Duracell platinum 92Ah AGM in our 05C210P Roadtrek. We will store her in winter and remove batteries to a heated garage on a wood pallet with battery maintainer on them. I think we did our previous batteries no good by just letting them sit all winter with no charge. Newbie error. Havenít been able to spend any time in her since purchase 2019 due to medical issues. 1st time rverís. Didnít know anything about exercising generator either. Taking 1st trip next week from IN to Upstate New York. Hope to get to know Lizzie a lot better during this trip. New tires/batteries, camped in driveway this week.
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Old 09-27-2023, 09:16 PM   #9
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Never a trickle charger, always a battery MAINTAINER! There is a difference.
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