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Old 09-16-2023, 07:03 PM   #1
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Default 1999 Roadtrek Popular Shower hose

Hi I'm new to the forum and going to buy a 99 RT Popular.

There's no shower hose at all or curtain.

Is there specific ones I need to buy for this

Thank you. Jeff

I attached the pic.
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Old 09-20-2023, 03:21 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum Jeff!

Looks like your faucet has standard threads for almost any hand shower wand.

I can't recommend a specific brand. Just get one with a cut-off on the wand itself so you can keep your preferred hot/cold water setting on the faucet.
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Old 09-20-2023, 12:20 PM   #3
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For the shower curtain, it just has to fit. This should work, but check the dimensions to be sure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076628K7J

Also, you will need the hooks that run along the track on the ceiling if they are not already there (you would need two packs of these for all the holes in the curtain):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YJLG84
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Old 09-21-2023, 05:42 AM   #4
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Welcome to the forum Jeff!

Looks like your faucet has standard threads for almost any hand shower wand.

I can't recommend a specific brand. Just get one with a cut-off on the wand itself so you can keep your preferred hot/cold water setting on the faucet.

Thank you very much for the Welcome!

When I got there to buy it yesterday, the owner had replaced it already cause I had mentioned it.

And it had that cut off wand as you wrote here. Thx again. Jeff
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Old 09-21-2023, 05:44 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by RT-NY View Post
For the shower curtain, it just has to fit. This should work, but check the dimensions to be sure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076628K7J

Also, you will need the hooks that run along the track on the ceiling if they are not already there (you would need two packs of these for all the holes in the curtain):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YJLG84
Thank you very much for the links.

I always wondered how do you get them plastic parts into the track? I looked at my Class c curtains on the cab bunk and there's no spaces at either end to insert them.

Thx much.
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Old 09-21-2023, 10:50 AM   #6
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I always wondered how do you get them plastic parts into the track?
There should be a little metal screw-on clamp at the end of the track. You just remove that and slide in the rollers.
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Old 09-21-2023, 03:37 PM   #7
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There should be a little metal screw-on clamp at the end of the track. You just remove that and slide in the rollers.
Thank you. I'll look for that. That's easy. I first thought that they might have to just get popped into it. 😀
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Old 09-21-2023, 05:59 PM   #8
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Thx for all the replies.

Had a question for RT owners, didn't want to start other thread so I'll just write it here.

The water connection underneath the RT is not in the greatest spot (it's horrendous actually) and when I connected my hose, water started to come out.

Is this a RT issue or a hose connection problem?

Thank you
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Old 09-21-2023, 08:04 PM   #9
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The water connection underneath the RT is not in the greatest spot (it's horrendous actually) and when I connected my hose, water started to come out.

Is this a RT issue or a hose connection problem?
Isn't it in the side storage compartment? Water shouldn't come out so perhaps there is a problem in the connection.

By the way, if you are a new buyer (or considering buying), and it is a Dodge RT, check the frame carefully before you do anything else!! Dodges of that era have a significant problem with rust on the frame rails forward of the front wheels, as described in the following thread:

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...mper-9697.html
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Old 09-21-2023, 08:26 PM   #10
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Isn't it in the side storage compartment? Water shouldn't come out so perhaps there is a problem in the connection.

By the way, if you are a new buyer (or considering buying), and it is a Dodge RT, check the frame carefully before you do anything else!! Dodges of that era have a significant problem with rust on the frame rails forward of the front wheels, as described in the following thread:

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...mper-9697.html
Yes in the side storage area.

Thanks for the link to the rust. I will check that out.

Hopefully this isn't a problem on the RT I bought since it spent all it's life in the SW Desert of Socal and Arizona
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Old 09-21-2023, 08:34 PM   #11
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Hopefully this isn't a problem on the RT I bought since it spent all it's life in the SW Desert of Socal and Arizona
That's good -- hopefully it was spared. Along with examining the rails overall, try as best you can to look with a flashlight from underneath in the inaccessible areas where the rails go into the cross member right at the bumper on both sides. The problem is less outside rust than rust inside the rails, but I guess if the outside surfaces are really clean than that would be a good sign.
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Old 09-21-2023, 08:40 PM   #12
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That's good -- hopefully it was spared. Along with examining the rails overall, try as best you can to look with a flashlight from underneath in the inaccessible areas where the rails go into the cross member right at the bumper on both sides. The problem is less outside rust than rust inside the rails, but I guess if the outside surfaces are really clean than that would be a good sign.
Thank you.

The bumper I'm guessing is the front one?

Thing with living here in the desert is most of us when getting cars etc never ever think of rust if the vehicles were here the entire time, BUT we shouldn't be so complacent with rusting.
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Old 09-21-2023, 08:50 PM   #13
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The bumper I'm guessing is the front one?
Yes, the front. You will see square-tubular rails on both sides running from the cross-member that runs between the front tires to a cross-member at the front bumper. That is the problem area.
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Old 09-21-2023, 09:55 PM   #14
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Yes, the front. You will see square-tubular rails on both sides running from the cross-member that runs between the front tires to a cross-member at the front bumper. That is the problem area.
Gotcha thx for all you input.

I just crawled under in on the hot rocks from the heat here, then got smarter and used my ramps to kneel onto and had a good look in the bright sunshine reflecting there and looks very clean. I'll bring it to get oil change soon and when it's up on the lift I'm going to have to look then too.

Honestly I really wanted the Chevy chassis RT but very rare it seems to find.

In 3 months of looking I only saw two, one had 175k miles.

I had to prioritize what was most important to me in getting an older RT. First was mileage then the year then if it had a generator.

The prices are unreal. Everyone I told about the year is in shock I paid this much, even the DMV raised eyebrows.

But they don't know how the market is with these Bs. It's very pricey as you know.

I only wished I didn't buy my class c last year because that money could have gone to a newer RT. I have come to despise my Class c and it's up for sale.

Going to be a huge change in space and storage but I'll manage it 😜
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Old 09-21-2023, 10:21 PM   #15
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I just crawled under in on the hot rocks from the heat here, then got smarter and used my ramps to kneel onto and had a good look in the bright sunshine reflecting there and looks very clean.
That's great!

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Honestly I really wanted the Chevy chassis RT but very rare it seems to find.
I really like the Dodge RTs from that era (around 2000) -- they are great little rigs in every way, and everything is really solidly built in them. Of course, you will always have something to fix in 25 year old RV, but apart from that potential problem with the frame rails, they are my preferred rig. Plus I think the Dodge looks better than the Chevy.

The only other problem I have with them is that they are impossible to get up on a regular lift so finding a mechanic to work on them can be difficult. But, on the other hand, parts are easy to come by (apart from the fiberglass skirting which is difficult to replace so drive carefully!).
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Old 09-21-2023, 10:43 PM   #16
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That's great!



I really like the Dodge RTs from that era (around 2000) -- they are great little rigs in every way, and everything is really solidly built in them. Of course, you will always have something to fix in 25 year old RV, but apart from that potential problem with the frame rails, they are my preferred rig. Plus I think the Dodge looks better than the Chevy.

The only other problem I have with them is that they are impossible to get up on a regular lift so finding a mechanic to work on them can be difficult. But, on the other hand, parts are easy to come by (apart from the fiberglass skirting which is difficult to replace so drive carefully!).
Really ? You prefer the Dodges. That's interesting. Yes you are correct about the mechanic thing. Had that issue with my Class c. Called up places, they say.... TOO BIG. Call truck shops.....TOO SMALL LOL.

So I use the mobile mechanics usually.

The reason I am selling the class c one is way too much to fix. Like you mentioned there's always something to fix given the age. But I like some down time in between the fixes. The C was like one thing after another after another with no rest in between. So mentally I got so over it when just last week, antifreeze started leaking out of the water pump area. That was the final straw.

Before that I was fixed everything that went wrong but I had a huge change towards that when the antifreeze came out.

I threw in some sealer stuff which miraculously stopped it all. And then been driving weeks with it locally and not a drop. But they claim it's permanent but I'm sure it's borrowed time.

The skirting, you mean around where the water attaches and power on the bottom?

Cause doesn't look easy as you said to replace so I'll have to be careful. Thx for the tip.


Here's a pic. Needs paint in spots. I just cleaned it all. You'd think you're selling it and you would clean it up for the new buyer! No!! They didn't. Lol.

But I lucked out cause he and his wife were elderly with 200 receipts they kept. So I know it was well cared for.

Here's a pic.
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Old 09-21-2023, 10:43 PM   #17
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Ooops it came sideways.
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Old 09-24-2023, 05:14 PM   #18
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The water leak at the city water connection is likely a bad rubber seal in the female connector .... assuming that is where you are seeing the leak. and sometimes you may also have to use a tool to increase the tightening force when attaching hose.
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Old 09-24-2023, 05:25 PM   #19
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The water leak at the city water connection is likely a bad rubber seal in the female connector .... assuming that is where you are seeing the leak. and sometimes you may also have to use a tool to increase the tightening force when attaching hose.
Thank you.

So is the female connector on the RT itself or that's the hose? It leaks from that point but I'm going to try another hose and a pressure regulator to see if it's just that.
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Old 09-24-2023, 05:27 PM   #20
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Interesting on the 2000'ish Dodges, my mechanic does not really like Dodges for electrical reasons, I have replaced the ECM twice, some weird issues, when we bought our 2000 RT 190 v it would not go into overdrive, ECM fixed that, then a couple of years later something else in the ECM failed amd the van died along I91, a great mechanic diagnosed that it (the ECM)was not sending out a 5v signal to let the engine know it was ok to run.
He was able to bypass the ECM and send a 5 v signal from a USB cigarette lighter adapter to the place looking for 5v on the engine.
I always carry an extra ECM.

In terms of the water, make sure you use a pressure regulator on city water supply.!
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