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Old 12-13-2023, 04:00 AM   #21
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I think this is what may be happening. The propane flame has to somehow be set up to provide enough heat for the absorption process to happen but not too much to damage the heater/coils. That's a guess on my part. So when you turn off the propane, the boiler heat starts to cool rapidly. (Think of a gas stove. There is some residual heat left in the pan but maybe not enough to give you an effective browning or frying heat. ) So at that point, the fridge starts to lose its effectiveness for cooling. You now switch to electric (either 12v or 120v). Those heating elements are not instantaneously at peak temperature. so they take a while before reaching the temp level to effectively produce the heat necessary to get the absorption process rolling at full steam. During this transition period, your fridge is essentially off.

Propane mode on this fridge cycles on and off to maintain the temperature in the fridge and that's done by a valve in the thermostat (the gas line goes physically through the thermostat body). The flame doesn't go off rather it cycles from "high flame" to "pilot." I visually verified this after replacing the thermostat. In electric modes it does actually turn off current to the heating elements. I also verified this using a volt meter. The meter gave me a c.120v reading when the thermostat was at MAX and 0v when at the lowest setting.
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Old 12-13-2023, 01:45 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by GallenH View Post
Those heating elements are not instantaneously at peak temperature. so they take a while before reaching the temp level to effectively produce the heat necessary to get the absorption process rolling at full steam. During this transition period, your fridge is essentially off.
Thank you.
You nailed it!
So switching to 120v might substantially effect the quality of food, especially in freezer ,even spoil it.
And doing it to save on propane does not make much sense.
Once I used 120v once a week for a month (parking situation, had to park in the driveway ).When I refilled the tank I did not notice much difference in propane consumption.
If it was not for the levelling I would not even bother to switch.
So long term use of 120 definitely saves propane,short term savings are questionable.
Another thing to consider- the switch knob itself.Moving mine goes with some effort.It is not real hard but feels like if I do the switching ofen it might brake.
2354 and all other models with electronic control will make things easier.Or not )):
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Old 12-13-2023, 02:39 PM   #23
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Personally, I don't worry that much about food spoilage. And, as I've mentioned, I've never even had ice cubes in the freezer thaw. I do use the 120v mode when I'm in a campground with electrical hookup. I was once in one for about a month and my fridge was routinely freezing (c.27º) in the mornings (that's why I replaced the thermostat--it obviously wasn't working). But, as you mentioned, you can no longer replace the RM2310 with that model so if you are intent on replacing and want to maintain the absorption type, you don't have many options.
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Old 12-13-2023, 06:25 PM   #24
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And those options very often do not last long for older RVs. Anyway,thank you everyone for all the replies.
I will try to do 2354 installation after the holidays.
Some places like Camping World void warranty for DIY installation.Need to find reputable dealer without this demand.The price unfortunately went up more than twice in couple of years while I was thinking it over.
Well...Next time I will think less)):
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Old 12-13-2023, 07:39 PM   #25
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Sounds like a plan. Good luck with everything.
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Old 12-13-2023, 08:14 PM   #26
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Thank you !
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Old 12-17-2023, 05:07 PM   #27
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I would appreciate if Roadtrek owners share their experience in taking RM2310 fridge out and installing 2354.
Not sure if the connections at the back are the same in later models of RT 170.I made a pic. of them.
I searched online but no info on exact situation.
The general idea is clear but it could be some details.
F.i. in the only video of 2310 removal the owner had trouble with some metal thing keeping it from being pooled out ( in later model of 170).
Thank you in advance for any details.
I removed the original refrigerator and replaced it with one from Best Buy. It only works at 120V. I have no regrets, a new one is more efficient. I would like to know if someone took one 120V, and converted it into a 12V. My RV is 2005 - Roadtreck 190 with a Chevy platform.
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Old 12-17-2023, 05:48 PM   #28
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Fernando,did you have 2310 model ?
If you did I'd appreciate any details of taking it out.
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Old 12-17-2023, 05:51 PM   #29
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I think you're asking if someone has converted it to run on 12v battery power? Because obviously if you were running a generator you wouldn't need any conversion. The simplest one I believe would be to run it off an inverter. You probably would need to check the amp draw of the fridge/inverter combo. Then determine how much battery capacity you need. So a fridge drawing 5A running 40% of the time would run 9.6hrs in a day times 5A = 48AH. One 100AH battery would give you about a days worth (assuming you don't have lithium, which would give you more).
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Old 12-17-2023, 06:35 PM   #30
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Default Dometic replacement in RT Sprinter

I replaced an older (2005) 3-way with a new 3-way. I boondock a fair amount and wanted to preserve propane capability. Additionally the replacement was an exact fit and hookup. I am very pleased with the new fridge. Another advantage to this model, since they are small, is that the freezer compartment can be easily removed, rendering another half a cubic foot of fridge space. My thread on the subject below.

I also added some supplemental cooling to improve performance, both exterior to power vent then dead space behind the fridge, and added an internal circulation fan. Also a set of wireless thermometers are a valuable add on.

For all the political talk, I don't think propane is going away anytime soon. If that is the case I have bigger problems running my RV in that world.

One last point...I do not consider 12v useless. My engine alternator puts out a ton of power. And I always run on 12v when rolling, and my batteries still get to 100% in half a day of driving or less. Performance on 12v has been fine. I also am not a fan of using propane while driving.

My thread:
https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...dge-10436.html
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