Macerator broken - Page 5

jbucking · 01-30-2020, 01:46 PM

It sounds correct and pumps fine, then shuts off. Then after it sits a while it starts back up. The tanks have been flushed out prior. I will crawl underneath and see if I can inspect the connections and ground. Can those be seen with the cover in place ? Thank you for your help.

hbn7hj · 01-30-2020, 02:31 PM

Sounds like it is getting hot and the thermal switch is activating. Remove it, take it apart, clean it up and check the bearings. Personally I’d replace it and clean the old one up for a spare.

I only have a portable macerator which I seldom use so the more knowledgable may have a different idea. I think it needs to removed to improve it’s function.

jbucking · 01-30-2020, 06:34 PM

Can anyone confirm that this would be my replacement pump ? https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-3200-.../dp/B000FQ78P4 . I have seen some discussion about right and left handed discharge versions. Again, I have a 2007 210V on the Chevy 6.0 liter chassis. I would just like to have my parts on hand, if possible, before tearing the apart in the driveway....

rowiebowie · 01-31-2020, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booster

Does it pump normally during that 10 seconds of run time and sound right?

Good point. When I first got my rv, the macerator ran when switched on, but would not pump due to the rubber impeller having failed.

Since I wasn't familiar with what it should sound like, I only knew the macerator was bad when it would not pump liquid. Had I left it running longer, it might have over-heated as yours did.

Considering the "dirty" job it would be to open it up for repair, I decided not to repair the macerator. Instead, I replaced it. Was a fairly easy and straight forward job on my model (which is different that yours and could be in a tight space.

jbucking · 01-31-2020, 12:44 PM

Can anyone confirm that this would be my replacement pump ? https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-3200-.../dp/B000FQ78P4 . I have seen some discussion about right and left handed discharge versions. Again, I have a 2007 210V on the Chevy 6.0 liter chassis. I would just like to have my parts on hand, if possible, before tearing the apart in the driveway....

booster · 01-31-2020, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbucking

Can anyone confirm that this would be my replacement pump ? https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-3200-.../dp/B000FQ78P4 . I have seen some discussion about right and left handed discharge versions. Again, I have a 2007 210V on the Chevy 6.0 liter chassis. I would just like to have my parts on hand, if possible, before tearing the apart in the driveway....

That looks to be the correct one if you want to replace with the identical pump.

I put in the caveat because the original installation by Roadtrek uses the pump upside down, which can cause some issues. There is have been several discussions of that issue on this forum. There is one easy thing you can do before installing a direct replacement, and that is to drill a second "weep" hole in the gap part of the unit between pump and motor. There is already one in the pump, but when you flip it upside down it will be on top instead of the bottom. Drill a new on 180 degrees opposite the one that is there, same size, and put a bit of silicone on the original to plug it.

The best solution is to use the available 180 degree opposite pump, which also improves some other things, but then you would need to reroute the exit hose path and maybe modify the guards a bit.

jbucking · 01-31-2020, 01:26 PM

Thank you. I do plan on drilling a new weep hole on the Pump and closing off the top, original weep hole. It looks like the panel that covers the pump is riveted on. I guess RT never thought we would have to remove it. I assume I will need to drill these rivets out and replace them with bolts ? I am hoping it is a straight forward job once the shield is off.

booster · 01-31-2020, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbucking

Thank you. I do plan on drilling a new weep hole on the Pump and closing off the top, original weep hole. It looks like the panel that covers the pump is riveted on. I guess RT never thought we would have to remove it. I assume I will need to drill these rivets out and replace them with bolts ? I am hoping it is a straight forward job once the shield is off.

IIRC on our 07 190P it was also riveted but did have screws here and there also. You might have screws along the front edge and rear and be able to slide it off. If not you would have to drill them and replace with sheet metal screws going back in. You likely won't have to remove all the rivets to take it off.

jbucking · 01-31-2020, 01:53 PM

Thanks again for everyone's help. I think I getting too old to lay on my back on the floor to do this sort of thing, but my local RT repair facility quoted me $ 600.00 -700.00 to do the repair. I should be able to fix it for a couple hundred dollars including a new discharge hose. Wish me luck.

jbucking · 01-31-2020, 08:56 PM

The first two photos are my macerator. The last page shows the potential Amazon replacement pump. Am I missing something, but does the pump and outlet on the replacement pump appear backwards compared to my original pump?

markopolo · 01-31-2020, 09:21 PM

Looks OK to me. Here's the image rotated:

41QK99gFxsL._AC rotate_.jpg

I'm pretty sure Booster found that Roadtrek installed the pump upside down on his RT. The weep hole will probably be on top because of that.

jbucking · 02-01-2020, 01:34 AM

Your are absolutely correct. It has been a long day. Thanks for your help.

jbucking · 02-01-2020, 06:31 PM

How about this to replace the dump hose from the macerator ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-inch-ID-K...53.m1438.l2649 . I looked at the Thetford Collapsible Hose, but it is not smooth inside and seems rather light weight. The Kanaflex seems more heavy duty, but probably harder to coil up. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

booster · 02-01-2020, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbucking

How about this to replace the dump hose from the macerator ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-inch-ID-K...53.m1438.l2649 . I looked at the Thetford Collapsible Hose, but it is not smooth inside and seems rather light weight. The Kanaflex seems more heavy duty, but probably harder to coil up. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Don't be afraid of the durability of the Sani-Con super flexible hose. They are much more durable than the stiffer ones that get severely bent going into the storage bin. We have had one for nearly a decade and it still is as good as new. You might want to use stiffer hose like you show or even a rubber hose from the macerator to storage area. That is what we did on our 190P. Just put a double hose barb at the all of the storage area.

jbucking · 02-01-2020, 07:57 PM

Thank you, The "Double Hose Barb", that you refer to, is the fitting that connects the two hoses ? If I were to use the Kanaflex in the chassis and use the THetford hose to coil up in storage ?

booster · 02-01-2020, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbucking

Thank you, The "Double Hose Barb", that you refer to, is the fitting that connects the two hoses ? If I were to use the Kanaflex in the chassis and use the THetford hose to coil up in storage ?

Yes, just as you say is how we have ours. You can get the double bard fitting as "bulkhead" version which allow it to be put through the wall of the storage with a nut on the opposite side so it is retained well. Be sure to use silicone on the Kanaflex hose as I think it will have spiral path on the inside that will cause a leak. The Thetford should have a full diameter section on the end no problem with it or sealer needed.

avanti · 02-01-2020, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booster

Don't be afraid of the durability of the Sani-Con super flexible hose. They are much more durable than the stiffer ones that get severely bent going into the storage bin. We have had one for nearly a decade and it still is as good as new. You might want to use stiffer hose like you show or even a rubber hose from the macerator to storage area. That is what we did on our 190P. Just put a double hose barb at the all of the storage area.

I agree. Both the Sani-Con hose and the cap assembly for the end are great. I have had them on both of our rigs without issue.

Ron J. Moore · 02-01-2020, 08:59 PM

Quote:

How about this to replace the dump hose from the macerator ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-inch-ID-K...53.m1438.l2649 . I looked at the Thetford Collapsible Hose, but it is not smooth inside and seems rather light weight. The Kanaflex seems more heavy duty, but probably harder to coil up. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

The Kanaflex looks like the one that came with my '15 210, it is a stiff monster; I cut it off just inside the box and put the Thetford Hose on. Ron

jbucking · 02-05-2020, 05:56 PM

I am getting ready to install my new my new macerator pump. I am curious. How many of you bothered to reinstall the manual crank handle (for dislodging jams in the pump, I assume) that extends from the pump to the left side near the grey and black valve pulls ? I understand that reinstalling this handle can open the pump to leaks. Is it necessary ? Thanks again.

booster · 02-05-2020, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbucking

I am getting ready to install my new my new macerator pump. I am curious. How many of you bothered to reinstall the manual crank handle (for dislodging jams in the pump, I assume) that extends from the pump to the left side near the grey and black valve pulls ? I understand that reinstalling this handle can open the pump to leaks. Is it necessary ? Thanks again.

We had never used it in several year of ownership, so I removed it on our replacement and redesign. No issues for us.

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